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Cruising past Linz through the narrow Strudenhau we reached the Wachau Valley early in the morning. A guided tour of Melk took us to the magnificent Benedictine Abbey. Originally a Roman border post and later a fortress for the reigning Babenberg family, today this Benedictine Monastery is one of Austria’s most prestigious academic institutions housing over 700 students.

Hi-lights included the library containing richly carved wooden shelves from floor to ceiling housing beautifully rebound leather and gold leaf books from the 18th century. The frescoed ceiling of angels, cherubs and other celestial beings has not been repainted in its 270 years, thanks to the library‘s lack of heating and lighting. The Marble Hall displays the artist Paul Troger’s superb handling of perspective. The ceiling fresco appears curved and makes the room appear much larger; however, it is actually flat. The Museum with modern display and lighting has many precious relics and treasures of the Monastery and offered a model of the site — cut-outs of which we found later in the giftshop. Lastly, the Church with carved marble pillars, stunning gold pulpit and elegantly frescoed ceiling was worth seeing —especially if you like to view the bones of long-dead saints — well, maybe. This is the setting for Umberto Eco’s historical mystery novel, The Name of the Rose.

Grates along the walk revealed either a lot of people with holes in their pockets or some wishful thinking. We wished we had some clearer weather when we got to the viewpoint but, then, at the end of it all we had a pleasant walk down to the ship.

Later, the cruise continued through the romantic Wachau Valley, the most beautiful river region in Austria, dotted with castles, vineyards and little riverside towns.

Interspursed wih the fine view was a Vienna Apple Strudel demonstration followed by an afternoon tea. Then, as the sun began to set we quietly approached another lock. Around dinnertime, we disembarked to discover Vienna at night as and a Strauss & Mozart concert.

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Cruising Across Europe — Index

Great Adventures