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Today, though the valley still presents a most peaceful scene, a gravel fire road runs north and south but sees only a handful of cars each day.

"During Sunday I did not move from my pleasant camp, where was wood, good water and good pasturage, everything to be desired by the traveller. I was engaged in obtaining observations for latitude and longitude, and computing them, writing up my notes, etc.; and I also made a sketch of the mountains over which we had passed the previous day. The men brought in some ducks, grouse and trout, which made an agreeable change in our diet; two or three humming birds were seen about the camp.

As you sit in silence beside the Flathead you will find it easy to imagine Blakiston beside you busily sketching the route you have just followed. Unfortunately, over the many years, all of Blakiston's sketches have been lost.

"The track now led up to the course of Flathead River, through thick forests with occasional openings, crossing several mountain streams, feeders of the river. We halted for breakfast on an open piece of swampy ground. On moving on again we plunged into thick forest, where the track was greatly obstructed by fallen timber. The Kootanies cut through a good many of the fallen sticks to allow the passage of the horses, but still the greater number remain as they fall, and cause much twisting, turning and branching of the track. We ascended gradually, passing a few fine pieces of open meadow, until we arrived near the head waters of the river, when the different streams composing it became mere mountain torrents. Here we commenced a steep ascent, the path ascending in a zig-zag up the hill; the trees, mostly spruce and fir, became smaller until we gained the summit of this knife-like ridge, from which an extensive view of the mountains was obtained.

Little has changed and maybe only the most devoted of you will want to tackle plunging through the thick forest to the top of Flathead ridge. From the point where the Upper Flathead turns west, just past an abandoned homestead, there is no recognizable trail, though no doubt the 'natives' know of several that will take you up to the top of Flathead Ridge. Following the river is a chore, but at least it will get you there. Reliving Blakiston's view from the top will be worth the trip.

"I halted to contemplate the scene, take bearings, and read the barometer, which showed an altitude of 6,100 feet. All appeared, however, utter confusion, such slight differences were there between the different mountains and ridges. One peak alone showed itself above the general surface. It lay to the northward about thirty miles distant, and I recognized it as 'Gould's Dome,' from which I had previously remarked from the edge of the plains.

This was one scene I did not want to miss. Dr. W.J. Cousins, a professor of history, who grew up in the Crowsnest Pass and authored The History of the Crowsnest Pass, had stated he believed the peak that Blakiston said stood out was not Gould's Dome (now Tornado Mountain) but rather Crowsnest Mountain. On the other hand, Dr. Irene Spry, foremost authority on the Palliser Expedition, believes that Blakiston did not make a mistake.

 

Here I was under the hot July sun, only a few moments away from solving the dilemma.

Let us review the choices:

 Thomas Blakiston &

Dr. Spry

 

 Gould's Dome

 Dr. Cousins

 

 Crowsnest Mountain

 

Was Blakiston right in his assessment? In a few moments only I would know for sure, as no one before had ever gone up to check.

It was as Blakiston described: "All appeared, however, utter confusion, such slight differences were there between the different mountains and ridges.

It was also true that One peak alone showed itself above the general surface.

But what mountain is it?

As you proceed down from the ridge (there is a gasline cut you can follow) you will be able to identify with Blakiston's problems.

"The descent was very steep, the horses having in some places difficulty in keeping their legs, although the path was zig-zag, and the continual descending on foot was very trying to the legs. After some distance, however, the descent became less steep, and we continued our course for a couple of hours before coming to any place fit for camping.

How many of us as we travel through the mountains fail to observe the changes in vegetation. Blakiston's journal gives us a chance to reflect.

"The change in the vegetation was first made evident to me on descending the mountain, by the appearance of a beautiful and regularly formed cedar, which, for the sake of remembering the tree, I then called the 'Columbian Cedar.'

Beside this I found, to me, a new abies something like the balsam fir of the Atlantic slope....

A new larch appeared, an elegant tree...

Next time you cross a mountain pass, take a closer look.

"The next day we travelled on through these forests, continually descending, and before noon arrived at Wigwam River, where it passed between two high rocky hills, which, from their imposing appearance from this spot, I called the North and South Bluffs. The bed of the river was deeply cut in the valley and exposed grand sand cliffs from two or three hundred feet in height, portions of these cliffs were broken, and pinnacles and blocks of different forms were left, having at a short distance a most fantastic appearance.

Blakiston was now coming down Lodgepole Creek. What he called North Bluff is today called Mount Broadwood. Continuing along its base following the Wigwam River to where it joins the Elk, Blakiston noted it was "a very rocky piece of country"

Soon you will approach the Tobacco plains, at the western extremity of the North Kootenay Pass. At this point our man of adventure turned south down the Elk River after naming Galton's Range for a distinguished British scientist, Francis Galton.

At this point in his journey it is most interesting to contemplate Blakiston's conclusions as to the viability of using the North Kootenay Pass for a railway. The route he decided could be made quite suitable, requiring only two tunnels, one of five miles and the other three miles in length. The west end around the North Bluff (Mount Broadwood) was also going to pose a problem, but-

"This portion of the line of ten geographical miles would have to be worked by a wire rope and one or more stationary engines.

 

 His conclusion of course seems ludicrous since we know that only a few miles to the north of his route lay the pass with "no mountain to go over," the Crowsnest.

It was perfect for a railway, but would not be discovered for another fifteen years

The question arises. Why didn't Blakiston take the time to follow this trail?


But it's time to continue on our journey.

More In the Footsteps of Thomas Blakiston


How do I participate in the student Sketchbook Project?


Thomas Blakiston in Japan


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