An early start had us leaving Havana and travelling west towards Viñales and its magnificent valley, partly reminiscent of Guilin in China because of the curious limestone mountains and rock outcropping. Along the way we stopped in Soroa to visit a beautifully located orchid garden. Then we had a chance to see a tobacco plantation where the tobacco leaf is grown, sorted (despalillo), graded, even fermented and then stored until the time is right for the leaf to be rolled. In Pinar del Rio we visited a state run tobacco factory where such brands as Cohiba, Montecristo and Romeo y Julieta cigars are made.

Next, we visited Sierra de los Órganos; the National Park of the Valley of Viñales a territory of impressive mountains of vertical sides and round tops covered by abundant vegetation — known as mogotes. The valley is a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site We descended into Cueva del Indio — a cave discovered in 1920 for a boating adventure.

Leaving the cave on our way to our hotel we couldn't resist shopping at booths of budding entrepreneurs. After settling-in our guide, Victor, took us on a leisurely walk through the countryside. On the way we met a young lad, José, who entertained us with his enthusiasm which included inviting us to his home to meet the family.

Index — Cuba - As It Was in 2003